Una Reflexión Sobre un Semestre "Debajo de la Colina de la Alhambra"

Not to sound cliché, but studying abroad in Granada was the best thing that has ever happened to me.  It is by far the most amazing place that I have been to, that in which I have felt most alive.  I have immersed myself within a rich culture, improved my skills in a foreign language, tried foods that I normally would not have, met interesting and incredible people, and loved deeply.  It would be pointless to look back at the goals that I set for myself at the start of the semester; I already know that I have succeeded and surpassed them.  There is not one thing that I would have done differently in those 117 days, which is not to say that I did not make mistakes; in reality, I made quite a few.  But I learned from them, which enhanced my experience all the more.

When it comes to what I have learned in my experience abroad, there are two categories: what I learned inside of the classroom and what I learned outside of the classroom.  Inside of the classroom, my world was opened to Arab art, history, and religion.  Learning about the Islamic faith offered a window to religious and cultural diversity (insert Morocco trip here).

In addition, my Spanish skills have flourished.  I now understand the secret to fluency in a language: speaking without first translating it from a different language; you must learn to think in that foreign language.  While I have not yet fully reached this level, I am one step closer.  Delia once told me that there are certain reactions that I make in Spanish, which occur naturally and without prior thought.

Outside of the classroom, I have learned that some things are better said in English.  Así, algunas cosas están mejor dicho en español.  And when it comes to translating from one language to the other, some things get lost in translation.

I have also learned a lot about myself in these past four months.  For example, I realized how little I knew about the world, especially in topics like politics and economics.  Along with that, I was slightly sheltered from the world of food (insert Aja teaching me how to peel an orange here).

Furthermore, I learned that you cannot permanently change who you are, no matter how hard you try.  While you may be able to change temporarily, it takes a lot of effort, and in the end, you will always end up turning back into yourself.  It is better to accept who you are and hope that, in time, that acceptance will grow to love.

Additionally, I now know that you could be the nicest person in the world, and there will still be people that do not like you.  Who cares?  It is more important to have confidence in yourself.

Finally, the most important thing that I have learned from Granada is how to love.  As ridiculous as it may sound, I did not know what to do with love four months ago.  For instance, I continually felt reluctant and unconfident in telling people that I loved them.  And then I came to Granada, and fell deeply in love with everything.  I love Delia, I love Javier, I love Paige, I love Matt, I love Laura.  But above all, I love Granada.  I have never before recognized such strong love, that now I cannot help but express it to these wonderful people.  I hope to apply this newfound confidence to those friends and family that I love in Pittsburgh.

Keeping that in mind, I now understand the difference between loving your experience in Granada and loving Granada.  It is very true that I loved my experience in Granada.  How could I not?  I was a student in a brilliant exchange program, I was part of a beautiful family, I lived in a picturesque plaza, I traveled to fascinating places, and I came to love amazing people, all the while learning Spanish and flamenco among an inspiring culture of Spanish people.  More importantly, I invested and immersed myself in this culture out of sheer curiosity of what I might find on the other side.  Not once did I intentionally embrace Americanism; why study abroad if you are not going to open yourself to respecting and learning from a new culture?  So yes, I had an extraordinary experience in Granada.

However, on a much more profound level, I love Granada.  And I know it is not perfect; I have witnessed some pretty unfortunate things there.  Yet, I have still fallen in love with the city, despite its imperfections.  The touristy appeals aside, there is something truly magical about the city.  Sure, the people are not flawless, but they know how to interact.  They know how to live.  The country's long history has given them time to evolve psychologically (insert real talk with Paige).  Similarly, the history and culture [quite literally] spill into the streets on a regular basis.  Even after four months, I would still be caught off guard to round a corner and see a procession making its way down the narrow street or a group of people mounted on horseback and wearing extravagant flamenco dress.

I think more than anything, it is a feeling from within.  I opened my heart to Granada, and in turn, it has cast its spell over me.  I know that I am not a Spaniard, but I have never felt a stronger sense of belonging anywhere in my life than in Granada.  I lived for the people, I breathed in the culture, I looked forward to the interactions and surprises around each corner.  Granada was where I belonged; where I was meant to be.

Now, what to do with this newfound love for a city?  Leaving was, in a word, excruciating.  Even a few days later, all that I can think about is how to return.  Granada has me questioning everything, my future especially.  I do not know how to pick up the remnants of my old life, nor how to apply what I have learned to it in order to move forward (insert Javier's ability to solve all problems and Delia's wise advice here).

In any case, this uncertainly would have stressed me out four months ago.  However, the granadina in me is saying "no pasa nada".  In the end, I will figure out what is best for me.  Poco a poco.

That being said, the road ahead of me will not be easy.  It is full of questions that need answering.  Yet there is one thing that I know for certain that will keep me grounded through this new chapter of my life: I am unconditionally in love with Granada (insert my poem here).  As promised, here it is:

An Exceptional City

By Elena Schaller

My wonderful Granada: What words can I give to you?

From the majestic Alhambra to the charming Albaicín

From the stunning Sierras to the exquisite olive trees

How will I ever leave?

I will miss my beautiful host mother and extraordinary host sister

I will miss my incredible roommate and the bond that we share

I will miss the lasting friendships that I have been so lucky to find

I will miss Plaza Bib-Rambla and the IES center

I will miss seeing elegant pastry shops and pharmacies on every corner

I will miss the intriguing “no pasa nada” way of life and the terrible Andalusian accent

I will miss being surrounded by rich culture, history, and people

I will miss the easy-going hippies and fascinating street art

I will miss the cold and rainy weather and streets full of people

I will miss tortilla española, churros con chocolate, Cola-Cao, and tinto de verano

I will miss the powerful spirit of flamenco and the romance in the streets

I will miss wearing flowers in my hair and convincing myself that I can’t afford another pair of shoes

I will miss exploring new areas and climbing to my favorite spots

I will miss the distinct color palette of the landscape: the purples, browns, and greens

I will miss Herminio, Lotfi, Javier, and the rest of the brilliant IES staff

But most of all, I will miss my life in this magical city

So, what words for you, Granada?

Thank you

Thank you for satisfying my curiosity and thirst for knowledge

Thank you for teaching me things about myself that I may never have known

Thank you for allowing me to discover the vibrancy of love

Thank you for giving me the opportunity to enjoy the simplicity of life

Thank you for opening yourself to me

Granada: my heart, my life, my city
My only wish is that I take this timeless experience with me wherever I go in hopes that it leads me back to you

Una Ciudad Excepcional

De Elena Schaller

Tradujo con la ayuda de Javier Martínez de Velasco

Mi Granada maravillosa: ¿Qué palabras puedo darte?

Desde la Alhambra majestuosa hasta el encantador Albaicín

Desde la Sierra grandiosa hasta los olivos exquisitos

¿Cómo voy a poder dejarte?

Echaré de menos a mi bella madre española y mi hermana extraordinaria

Echaré de menos a mi increíble compañera de cuarto y la conexión que compartimos

Echaré de menos las amistades duraderas que he tenido la suerte de encontrar

Echaré de menos la Plaza Bib-Rambla y el centro de IES

Echaré de menos ver las pastelerías elegantes y las farmacias en cada esquina

Echaré de menos la intrigante forma de vida del “no pasa nada” y el terrible acento andaluz

Echaré de menos estar rodeada de una cultura rica, la historia y la gente

Echaré de menos los hippies tranquilos y el fascinante arte urbano

Echaré de menos el tiempo de frío y lluvia y las calles llenas de gente

Echaré de menos la tortilla española, churros con chocolate, Cola-Cao y tinto de verano

Echaré de menos el espíritu poderoso del flamenco, y el romance en las calles

Echaré de menos llevar flores en el pelo y convencerme de que no puedo comprar otro par de zapatos

Echaré de menos explorar nuevas zonas y subir a mis sitios favoritos

Echaré de menos la distinta paleta de colores del paisaje: los morados, marrones y verdes

Echaré de menos a Herminio, Lotfi, Javier y el resto del brillante personal de IES

Pero sobre todo, echaré de menos mi vida en esta ciudad mágica

Pues, ¿qué palabras para ti, Granada?

Gracias

Gracias por satisfacer mi curiosidad y mi sed de conocimiento

Gracias por enseñarme cosas sobre mí misma que podría no haber sabido nunca

Gracias por dejarme descubrir la intensidad del amor

Gracias por darme la oportunidad de disfrutar la simplicidad de la vida

Gracias por abrirte a mí

Granada: mi corazón, mi vida, mi ciudad

Mi único deseo es llevar esta experiencia eterna conmigo adonde vaya con la esperanza de que me traiga otra vez a ti

Mi Última Semana en Granada

My last Sunday in Spain was cold and rainy.  I had no desire to go for a walk, and Aja gave me a good piece of advice: we're only here for another week--do what you want.  So instead, I uploaded pictures and water colored before eating one of my favorite dishes for comida--patatas a lo pobre!  Aja and José ended up getting in a heated debate about Islam and feminism.  In the end, Aja had had enough and left the table in tears; sometimes José doesn't know when to stop.  But Delia and I cheered Aja up in bed.  It was so cute to watch Delia sooth her; she really is our mother.  Afterwards, I went to Café Pícaro to start studying for final exams.  It was a cool cafe, but better suited for socializing than for studying.  Later, I spent time with Delia: I read her my poem and we talked about love and about life.  I tried to soak in each moment with her.  When I showed her the pictures from the flamenco show, she told me that that was the strongest moment where she felt like Aja and I were her girls.  She said that she loved watching our personalities emerge through the way that we danced, and that everyone else was just an accompaniment; she was there for us.  We both started crying.  That's when I realized that she would truly miss us when we leave.  Later, Laura got upset about our family picture from the flamenco show because she thought that she looked bad in it.  She half wanted me to take it down from Facebook for that reason.  It was rather hilarious.  After, I made soup for dinner.  Aja and I talked about the parallels between her and Laura, and me and Delia.  Then I skyped my family.  Before I went to bed, I saw that my IES friend, Emily, quoted my poem in her blog.  I was touched.

I slept in on Monday before deciding that it had been too long since I had been to San Miguel alto.  I have no idea how long I was there.  San Miguel has a funny way of putting your mind at ease.  The weather was a bit chilly, but warm in the sun.  Once I walked home, I showered and finished up my watercolor gifts before comida.  Delia prepared a delicious vegetable and egg mash-up.  She also surprised me with my favorite chocolate chip cookies for dessert.  Yet somehow, I ended up crying with Delia and Aja.  It will be so hard to leave them.


A bit later, I blogged and went to the library across the river.  I was a bit confused about the set up; I think that it is more for borrowing books than for studying.  So I studied in the lobby for a while until I got a call from Paige.  We got tapas nearby and cried over leaving.  We are both so attached to Granada.  On my way home--completely unintentionally--I passed a pastelería and saw the chocolate chip cookies that Delia buys.  I bought six.  I also passed Clarissa on my way home.  It was nice to catch up with her after seeing her so little post-Semana Santa.  Then I studied, blogged, and journaled at home for the rest of the night.

On Tuesday, I woke up to the bells of the Cathedral, ringing from behind my house.  I would miss how they ring at random times of the day.  Once I got ready, I took a walk around el Río Genil, taking it all in.  Along the way, I stopped in a church that I had never been to and made my last three wishes.  It can't be hard to guess what they were.

I returned home to a clean bedroom.  I loved when Delia tidied and straightened our room; another thing that I would miss.  Then I did some studying before a fun comida.  Delia was at the doctor's office, so Laura made delicious pesto pasta.  Aja and I helped her with English, but I've come to find that it's quite difficult for me to teach English to someone else, despite it being my first language.  I know it more so by speaking than by all of the correct grammar, terms, etc.  Delia came back from the doctor's office with more of my cookies, which is when I spilled the beans about the six that I ate in secret.  She was shocked that I didn't get sick!  How I would miss comida: the food, the salads, the company, everything...  I headed to IES afterwards, in the warm and sunny weather.  Instead of having a watercolor final, we had a portfolio revision.  Ana and I looked through all of my work, commenting on a few of our favorites.  It was great to see how far I had come.  I gave Ana the last painting that I did in class the week before at los Jardines Fundación Rodríguez-Acosta.  She teared up and put it in her beautiful sketchbook.  She is so wonderful.  Afterwards, I showed up for my Arab World final to find out that it had taken place that morning!  But, as usual, Javier saved the day.  He called my teacher and arranged for me to take it the next morning before my flamenco final.

Later, Paige and I hiked up to San Miguel alto for sunset.  It was hard to say goodbye to my favorite spot in Granada.  After, I ate dinner and showered.  I had planned on going out for Clarissa's birthday, but now had to study instead.

I woke up early on Wednesday and headed to IES. I made up my Arab World final in Javier's office. I think it went alright. Afterwards, I went upstairs and sat outside on the terrace, soaking in every inch of the morning sun. Then I studied for flamenco and wished Clarissa a happy birthday before making my way downstairs. The flamenco theory final was long and draining. It was a relief to have it behind me. I took my time walking home, enjoying the pleasant weather and running into people that I know. I relaxed at home before comida, noting how the marble interior keeps the house cool.

After comida, I studied for a bit before getting a coffee with Aja at an outside cafe in Plaza Bibs (the typical Spanish thing to do). We had a solid talk, despite the fact that we felt very different about our last week week; her boyfriend and brother were about to join her in Granada and travel for the next two weeks while I would be back in Pittsburgh in a few days. Then I walked to IES for a meeting on ways to return to Spain. On the way, however, I ran into Ana and she gave me a watercolor painting of the view from IES that she made for me. I told her that I would put it in my sketchbook. How special. Later, I went to my flamenco practice final. It was sad to think that it might be the last time I danced flamenco. Before I left, I gave my teacher, María, a watercolor painting that I made for her. Even though she could be a little crazy sometimes, she was always so funny and sweet to me. Afterwards, I got tapas with Matt. I think he could tell that I was struggling. Back at home, I squeezed in a bit of studying before bed.

I arrived to IES early on Thursday morning, joining a group study session for my most stressful final: Islamic Art and Architecture.  The test consisted of eight pictures that spanned over five different time periods.  By the end of it, my brain was fried and my hand was throbbing.  On the bright side, I felt accomplished for getting through it.

In the 80-degree sunny weather, I walked home and relaxed until comida.  Aja noted that it would be our last comida with just the four of us.  That was my breaking point.  As soon we were finished eating, I escaped to the terrace and let it all out.  I don't know how long I cried, but I couldn't turn it off.  At one point, the woman that lives on the 4th floor, María, climbed out of the window and tried to cheer me up.  She told me to miss my flight and that I knew where she lived if I ever needed a place to stay.  And just like that, a complete stranger showing me kindness and hospitality.  I eventually returned to our piso, where Delia and Laura made me feel better.  They tried to figure out how I could come back and study pharmacy in Granada.  I think they finally understood how much I loved the city.  Then José called and said goodbye to me over the phone.  Afterwards, I knew I need to take a walk to clear my head.  How I would miss the street life.  In Plaza Gran Capitán, I sat down on a bench and an old Italian man asked if he could sit next to me.  I listened to him as he told me his life story, wondering if this would ever happen in the U.S.  Later, I met up with Trini for tapas.  I gave her a copy of my poem in Spanish and English.  She preferred the English version because of its natural rhythm.  Then I gave her a frame with a picture of us from the barbecue, and a necklace with pearls (her favorite) and a flower (my favorite).  It was a hard goodbye.

Friday morning, I donated a bag full of clothes and books to IES before printing my flight information and studying for my last final: Spanish.  It ended up being a breeze.  I gave my teacher, Ari, a watercolor painting before leaving the classroom.  Then I found Ana upstairs to get my watercolor portfolio.  I also went to Javier's office and gave him a copy of my poem and my watercolor painting from his friends' house in el Valle de Lecrín.  It was a strange feeling leaving IES for the last time.  I didn't make it two steps, however, before I stopped in La Ventana and said goodbye to Lotfi.  In the warm and sunny weather, I walked home to find Aja's boyfriend, Matt, and her brother, Philey.  They, along with Ki Ke, joined us for comida.  It was incredible to feel more and more like part of the family.  I took a "siestita" before getting ready for the IES cocktail.  I wanted a family picture before we left, but it turned into a bit of a photo shoot.

Eventually, we made our way downstairs and joined up with friends on our walk to Carmen de los Chapiteles.  It was a spectacular restaurant: we arrived beneath the quiet Alhambra to see the sun setting over the Albaícin, all the while being surrounded by beautiful gardens.  Waiters served drinks and delicious h'orderves while we mingled with IES students and staff.  Pictures were being taken left and right.

Then it was time for Consejo to say a few words.  We presented the slide show, I read my poem, and Javier surprised us all by reading a poem, which he had written that afternoon:

Algún Día

de Javier Martínez de Velasco

Algún día,

quizás mañana,

quizás el año próximo,

quizás el 19 de noviembre del año 2024

los verás

en una geometría imposible,

en un golpe de viento del Sur,

en una palabra rara de amor raro.

Los verás claramente, o los imaginará

 en la mano de un hombre feliz,

en el precio del petróleo o de las flores,

en una letra árabe en las profundidades de un vaso.

Los verás, o los imaginarás, o los soñarás claramente

Algún día,

quizás mañana,

quizás dentro de cinco años,

quizás un jueves de septiembre del año 2034.

Claramente los verás, o los imaginarás,

O quizás los soñarás.

Tus 117 días en Granada.

That's when the waterworks started.  When they finally kicked us out, the groups began to split off in various directions.  I walked with my friends up through the Albaícin.  We hit a fork in the road where a group of students turned towards the Camborio.  I looked the other way to find Javier, Jeff, Alba, and my best friends walking towards the mirador de San Nicolás.  I knew the right choice.  Sitting on the ledge of the mirador, watching the Alhambra perched quietly amid the night sky, drinking, laughing, and crying with the people I loved most, was a moment that I would never forget.  After some time, we left the Albaícin to hang out in IES--a clear sign of how down-to-earth the IES staff are.  When it was time to leave, Javier hugged each student.  It broke my heart to say goodbye to him.  Afterwards, I joined Paige, Matt, and Lorena at Vogue.  Unfortunately, I did not make it to see the sunrise or eat churros con chocolate for breakfast in the morning, but I would not have changed a thing about that night.  It was the perfect ending to an incredible semester.

I woke up Saturday, knowing that it was my last day in Granada. I woke up too early, but I couldn't fall back asleep. So I decided to pack in order to free up my afternoon. After a few hours, I managed to fit everything into four bags. Then it was time for my last comida. Matt and Philey joined us again, but my only concern was my family. I love them so much.

That afternoon, I went on a walk with Paige. We exchanged watercolor paintings; I gave her my painting from when we went to San Nicolás some time ago, and she gave me her painting from our class in Carmen de los Martíres. Then we went to Rey Fernando and ate our desserts in Plaza Nueva. It was hot outside, but so beautiful. Afterwards, we hiked up to Carmen de los Martíres. A religious procession of some kind was going on next to the park, and, at one point, guns were shot off. Paige and I took off running in fear that we were being shot at! At the highest point of the park, we sat and took in everything.

After a while, we descended through Realejo. As we were walking along Calle de los Molinos, we heard someone calling our names. I looked up to see Jeff waving at us from his balcony. He wished us safe trips and blew us a kiss. We continued walking to find the prince statue, and rubbed his feet to ensure our return to Granada. As we headed towards the river, Paige and I found a bench and people-watched.

Later, we joined the Matts, Lorena, Bethine, Clarissa, and Lauren at Bar Rome. After a few tapas, we said our sad goodbyes. We also said goodbye to our friends who work there: Nevan, Eli, and "el Jefe".

I walked home feeling sad and alone. I cried with Delia. She told her mother that I was having a hard time leaving, and she told Delia to give me a big hug for her. Then Delia gave me my beautiful painting of our view of Plaza Bib-Rambla. It was perfect in every way possible. I fit it into my suitcase and said goodbye to Aja, who was about to leave with Matt and Philey to travel for the next two weeks. I learned so much from her. My last few hours were spent with my family. I gave Delia a copy of my poem in Spanish and English to practice, a picture of me and Aja, a necklace from Portugal, a tacky flamenco apron which she loved, and a watercolor painting of Plaza Bib-Rambla that I made for her. She cried and I cried with her. Then I laid down on the couch and closed my eyes, while listening to her quietly watch TV. Laura and Ki Ke joined us eventually, and I gave Laura a scarf and plate from Portugal. I was surprised and moved to see tears in her eyes; I've only seen her cry once. My family spent a few minutes discussing how I could come back to them.Then it was time. They helped me carry my suitcases downstairs, where I said goodbye to Laura and Ki Ke. Then I walked across Plaza Bib-Rambla with Delia. It was surreal to think of how we did this same thing in reverse four months ago. I looked behind me to see Laura and Ki Ke waving at me and blowing me a kiss from the window of the living room. Next thing I know, I'm standing on Reyes Católicos with Delia, as the taxi driver loads my luggage into the cab. Delia took my hands as we said goodbye to each other. All that I could think of was the first thought that I had when I met her: how beautiful she was. With a big, black scarf wrapped elegantly around her, I thought again at how beautiful she was. However, now I knew that her beauty radiated from the inside. As I sat down in the backseat of the cab, I rolled down my window so that Delia could say her last farewells and words of wisdom. Like a scene a movie, I stuck my head out of the window to watch her as the cab pulled away. Blurred views of Gran Vía rapidly passed before my eyes as I broke down. At Triunfo, I joined a small group of IES students, with the same sadness reflected in all of their eyes. I half-expected to see Javier or someone else from IES, but no one came. So we boarded the quiet bus and left for Málaga around 3am Sunday morning. It broke my heart to leave Granada behind me.

At the Málaga airport, the small group of students started to break off, but I stayed with a few that was also going to Madrid. I checked in two bags and one was overweight, but luckily, the man only charged me for one. At the gate, I watched my first Spanish sunrise with Bethine. Better late than never, right? Afterwards, I fell asleep until the plane boarded. At the Madrid airport, I was shocked when Matt snuck up on me. I was so happy to see him again! He and a few other students accompanied me to Dallas.; together until the end. However, it was a miserable 11-hour flight to Dallas. Upon our arrival, it was finally time to go our separate ways. I prayed that it would be the last goodbyes for a while. I sat at the Pittsburgh gate, alone and holding back tears. Around 11:30pm Sunday night, I arrived in Pittsburgh. After over 24 hours of traveling, I was exhausted and emotionally unstable. However, I felt a surge of relief to see my mother and sister waiting for me. I greeted them with hugs and besos, and told them that I loved them. I did the same with my Dad when he pulled the car up outside. I felt a mix of emotions in the car ride home, wondering mostly how to continue living a past life...