Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Granada por los Ojos de una Turista

Sunday was important for two reasons.  First, it meant that I would leave Granada in exactly two weeks.  Second, on a happier note, it was Mother's Day (well, in the United States anyway).  During the morning, I worked on homework and greeted the family, who had come back from the beach.  Laura and Ki Ke joined us for comida, after which I took a walk to Lorca Park.  I planned on being a "tourist" this week by going to tourist shops and taking pictures of things that I see everyday.  However, once I got to Lorca, I found a bench in the shade because the weather was in the 90s and I was still quite sun burnt from Cabo de Gata; I used almost my whole bottle of aloe vera gel in just a few days!  I wished there would've been more of a gradual change in weather from upper 60s to upper 80s, but I cooled off with a turrón flavored ice cream cone--one of my favorites!  Then I sketched on the bench for a while.  After I came home, I finished up some homework before skyping my parents and grandparents for Mother's Day.  By coincidence, my sisters gave my mom a lovely bouquet of pink tulips--almost exactly the same ones that Aja and I gave to Delia the Sunday before!  Later, I uploaded pictures from Cabo de Gata, ate dinner, and water colored.  From the apartment, we could hear loud cheers and fireworks; I learned that Granada's soccer team had lost their game, but managed to enter the highest division in the league.


I was in disbelief that Monday started off the last week of classes.  Now it was time to start thinking about final exams.  The small convenient store next to IES, La Ventana, is owned by a Moroccan man named Lotfi.  After four months of running down to Lotfi's to buy snacks in between classes, we've become good friends.  Thus, I included him in the poem that I wrote a few weeks back (I will include it in my final blog).  And since he wasn't at open mic night, I read it for him after class.  He was so touched.  The unusual heat continued; Delia even switched over to the summer bedsheets.  Luckily, my sunburn was healing up nicely.  Delia prepared a delicious comida that day--spaghetti with tomato and fried garlic sauces.  Afterwards, I  took a walk around the centro and did some tourist shopping before returning to Plaza-Bibrambla to sketch.  A group of kids made me laugh when they came up to me and watched me sketch; I think they thought that I was some famous artist.  Later, I bought a few groceries at Mercadona before going to Flamenco.  Then I talked with Delia a bit before writing my Cabo de Gata blog.  Monday was a great day because I decided to stay happy and enjoy my last two weeks in Granada as much as possible; I would try not to think about leaving until it came to that point.








I went to class Tuesday morning before returning home for comida.  Then I went to Watercolor class, where we had a chance to catch up with our current paintings.  Afterwards, Paige and I decided to enjoy the great weather and hike through the Albaicín to el mirador de San Nicolás.  There we water colored the Alhambra in the afternoon sun.  Then we got tapas in the quirky barrio (neighborhood), Realejo.  As usual, we conversed about "real" things and had a great afternoon together.  Later, I spent some time with Delia at home and water colored a bit; I decided that small paintings would make great gifts to give to the people that I love before leaving.


Wednesday was my last "favorite day".  Thus, I went for my morning walk to Carmen de los Martíres.  There I took many pictures and sketched (in shady spots of course).  I eventually came home to watercolor my sketches and shower before comida.  I got so excited when I saw the elbow macaroni...until I realized that there was seafood intermixed with them; I ate around the fish.  Someone wanted to buy one of Delia's recently-finished paintings to give as a gift and I helped her decide which one.  After that, I went to my last Islamic Art and Architecture visit to la madraza (Islamic university).  Then I met up with the other students from Consejo to work on the slide show presentation for the IES final dinner--it's going to turn out great!  On our way home from IES, Aja and I stopped at la pinonería and bought heavenly piononos.  Afterwards, I went to our last Flamenco practice before our upcoming show on Saturday.  It made me so excited to rehearse with the musicians that will perform with us at the show.  Lorena also took pictures of the rehearsal.  Then I returned home to tapa with the family.  Aja and I originally planned to take the family out for tapas, but Delia suggested making our own tapas at home.  We shared a delicious pizza in the living room and made shandy drinks (beer and soda).  Aja and I also made s'mores for Delia and Laura, after trying to explain the food to them some time ago.  After dinner, we watched The Notebook on the TV.  I still find it funny to watch classic movies in Spanish.  Later, I went out for the night with Paige and our Italian friends.
















Thursday was the last Consejo meeting; thus, everyone was there for change!  After, Javier helped me translate my poem to Spanish.  In his office, I had to hold back tears; I knew that it would be harder than I though to not think about leaving.  Then I laid down on one of the couches in the lounge before classes started.  It was the last "real" day of class; we were supposed to have class on Friday to make up for the day that classes were canceled in March due to the general strike.  However, my teachers told me that they would not bring the attendance sheet with them; we got the hint.  Mi lack of sleep from the night before finally caught up with me in Arab World.  However, my spirits picked up when we went to los Jardines Fundación Rodríguez-Acosta with my Watercolor class.  The site was so beautiful, and it was connected with the museum that we went to on our first visit; my teacher, Ana, explained how it symbolized how we had come full circle.  I found a shady spot to work, hiding from the 90 degree weather.  Delia made gazpacho for comida that day, but Aja and I didn't like it; it was like eating cold tomato soup!  Afterwards, I took a much-needed siesta before going shopping for gifts and for myself.  That night, I went out for tapas with Paige, Matt, and Lorena.  We also had delicious mohitos at a cocktail bar on Calle Navas.




Between the heat, noise in the plaza, and my peeling sunburn, I didn't sleep very well, and woke up early on Friday.  I finished some more shopping before returning home for comida.  It was another hot and humid day.  That afternoon, I walked around Realejo before Eva and Alicia came to the house with their host mom, Josefine for a girls night... or at least until José crashed!  Eva painted everyone's nails while we chatted and munched on cookies, cake, and tea.  Afterwards, I went out to tapas with Paige and Trini and her friends--Tamara, Fer, and Jenny.  Then we went to la Plaza de Toros, which has the grandiose bull ring.  There was an Oktoberfest going on inside the ring all week, we checked it out.  It was so much fun!  An obvious Spanish attempt at a German tradition.  There was a huge tent with benches, beer steins, German food, lederhosen, and pretzels--which I had a hard time explaining to the Spaniards!  After the Oktoberfest ended, the girls and I stopped by some of the small clubs in the plaza because we were offered free drinks!  Since the plaza is from the center of town, I took a taxi home to rest up for the next day!













The day of our flamenco show had finally come on Saturday.  I got ready in the morning and headed to the site, which was near the river.  It was an artsy, intimate space--perfect for the performance.  The students were told to arrive at 11am, giving us two hours to prepare beforehand.  We went through the program a few times with the musicians, until everyone felt comfortable.  Luckily, my teacher, María, had an extra pair of shoes that fit me since Aja and I share a pair.  María also bought a bouquet of flowers for the girls to incorporate in their hair; the girls looked so dolled up!  Javier and Lorena also came early to set up chairs and take pictures.  I started to get nervous when the audience entered--students and host families poured through the door.  Of course, Delia and Laura were last.  Still, I loved seeing them outside of the normal house setting.  I excitedly greeted them and gave my camera to Paige (after meeting her mother, Carmen, of course!).  The show, or "open practice", only lasted about 15 minutes.  Both groups joined in a warm-up stretch, followed by two exercises of different "palos".  Then each group did the routine separately.  I tried to push my nerves aside, dance my heart out, and just soak in every moment.  I made a few mistakes, but enjoyed it nonetheless!  Afterwards, Javier and my family and friends congratulated me; what a moment it was to be surrounded by all the people I love.  After taking many pictures, I walked home with my friends.  On the way, I was surprised to pass a huge group of men and women in flamenco dress, atop horses!  As we continued walking, there was a procession with floats, one of which was pulled by what looked like bulls.  Apparently the festival is called El Rocio.  And that is why I love Granada!  So much rich cultures spills into normal, everyday life.  I also noticed the weather had cooled off and returned to normal (70s).  Back at home, I ate comida with the family--I love them more and more each day!  Then Aja and I watched the video of the flamenco show that Paige had taken for me.  I knew my American mom would love it!  After taking a siesta, I water colored and uploaded pictures.  Then I went to Bar Rome in Paige and Matt's barrio.
















Monday, May 14, 2012

Cabo de Gata

FRIDAY:
Aja and I met the IES group at los Jardines del Triunfo at 8am.  The bus arrived in Retamar (southeast from Granada) around 10:30am, which was our only chance to buy water and use the bathroom for the next several hours.  Then the bus drove us 15 minutes more to the coast.

At 11:30am, we began our nine-mile hike along the coast of Cabo de Gata.  The only things that we needed to bring with us were water, lunch, sunscreen, and a bathing suit; the rest was left on the bus.  We split into three groups of difficulty, but we all traveled along the same route more or less, simply at different speeds.  I chose the smaller, slower group because I wanted to take my time and enjoy the spectacular landscape.































Our guide led us along a trail, stopping to tell us about the natural park and to hydrate.  The weather was scorching hot without a cloud in the sky; it was crucial to take breaks to hydrate and reapply sun screen.  We luckily had one opportunity to fill our water bottles along the way.



















It was incredible to see the desert to our left and the beautiful blue Mediterranean to our right.  And the rock formations and volcanic remnants were super cool too.  The terrain was challenging, but not impossible; there were many hills, rocks to traverse, and loose pebbles.  But of course, a few daredevil students wandered off the paths to climb giant rock formations.  

We passed through la Playa de Mónsul, las Calas del Barronal y la Playa de Genoveses.  All of the beaches were gorgeous and, of course, nude.  All three groups met up at one beach to eat our packed lunches and go for a swim.  The water was so refreshing, and the only thing that we had to worry about was jellyfish!  However, a few students got cut on the rocks in the water.


































We finally arrived in San José around 7pm, exhausted but content.  San José is a breath-taking coastal town with two main beaches.  In May, most of the houses and restaurants are still vacant or closed-up for the season; thus, the beaches were very empty.  However, the town is apparently filled with people in July and August.

We picked up our bags from the bus and then walked to our hostel, el Albergue San José.  I'm pretty sure IES took over the small hostel.  I shared a room with Clarissa, Bethine, and Kassie.  Everyone immediately hit the showers because we were covered in dirt, sweat, and sand.







Once we were all cleaned up, we sat outside on the patio and had a cold beer.  Then the group went to a cute beach-side restaurant to eat dinner at 9pm.  There we had salad, spaghetti, ice cream, and drinks. 

Afterwards, we split off into groups for the rest of the night.  I joined Javier, Alba, Lorena, and a few IES students at the beach farther away.  There we made a small bonfire with what we had, shared a few beers, and enjoyed the night together.  The stars were absolutely incredible; so clear and bright.  Unfortunately, the night was a bit cold and windy on the beach, so we had to head back to the hostel eventually!

SATURDAY:
It seemed as though I forgot to sunscreen the back of my knees the day before, because they had gotten pretty burnt.  However, I lathered up in aloe vera and intended to keep my knees out of the sun.  I ate a light breakfast at the hostel around 9am and then headed to the beach!  Just a short walk away, we piled our stuff on the dock and picked a spot on the sand.  The beach was so pretty in the morning light.

We had the day free to do as we pleased.  Activities were going on all day--snorkeling, kayaking, and bike riding--so everyone was constantly coming and going.  I had signed up to bike ride, but I did not end up doing it because of my sunburnt knees.  Instead, I relaxed and hung out at the beach, being careful to take breaks in the shade and reapply sunscreen; the weather was the same as the day before.

Once the activities had started, I walked along the coast with Alicia.  We also cooled off in the water a few times.  However, the water was a bit colder than the day before, so it took us longer to get in!

Later, Javier treated me, Alicia, Lorena, Matt, Melissa, and Meg to lunch.  We went to the same beachside restaurant where we ate dinner the night before, and ordered a mountain of food--appetizers, paella, dessert, and a round of drinks.

Then we returned to hang out at the beach for the rest of the afternoon.  Before leaving, Lorena and I stopped at the supermarket, where I bought a bottle of aloe vera gel; despite my efforts, I was certain that I burned more throughout the course of the day.



















Then we picked up our bags from the hostel and left around 6pm.  I tried to absorb as much of the extraordinary landscape as possible along the way, realizing that it may have been one of my last bus rides through Andalucía.

The bus took a quick break at a rest stop, where we used the bathroom and bought snacks.  Then we continued on and arrived in Granada around 9pm.  My bus usually drops us off at Triunfo, but there was a huge protest going on, so it dropped us off in Cartuja instead.  Aja and I walked down through Triunfo to observe the event.  The area was filled with hippies that were protesting "Quince M"; similar to the Occupy movements, but it came earlier.  The protesters continued along Gran Vía, causing confusion among traffic.  

Aja and I returned home to an empty house; it seemed that our family had gone to the beach too!  So I showered, grabbed something to eat, lathered myself in aloe vera, and passed out almost immediately after.


Cabo de Gata was one of my favorite IES excursions, perhaps because it was our last one together.  Even though Paige wasn't there (she had a URG exam on Friday), I had such a wonderful time with everyone, and made many lasting memories.  Without a doubt, it was a trip to remember.